GCRR Special Projects P3

I used this as a tracing to make the window blanks (use styrene thick enough to fill it flush with the exterior of the shell- I used two pieces and glued them together to get the proper thickness, although a little either way can later be sanded down or puttied and sanded flat).		Cut and fit them as close as possible, gently bend/curve them slightly to fit the original window curve, and glue them into place against the green plastic window material.

I put zap-a-gap glue heavily around the sides of the blanks to help fill the gap.) I then clamped them down tight (photo 15).
		Photo 15
Run a bead of glue around the inside edges of the green window material to help keep it in place as the support for the window blanks (photo 16).
		Photo 16
I sanded the shell and primered it to show up any flaws. Those I puttied and when dry, sanded them. I decided to make the rear look a little more ‘old style fire truck’ by slanting the sides of the rear. I measured back at the top 3/8”, drew a line from there down to the top of the middle rail on both sides and made the cuts line (photo 17).
		Photo17
Glue in the rear cab wall and putty the crack, then glue in the hosebed floor in the rear half of the shell only *(photo 18).* The front part can later rest on it’s rails freely, allowing for future taking apart and mounting things (sound & lights) in the cab.
		Photo 18
Cut two pieces for the inside walls of the hosebed. Make sure the rear angles match the sloping rear ends of the outside eggliner walls. Glue into place (photo 19), close at the rear with the outside walls (photo 19 ‘A’) leaving an equal distance from the outside walls to their fronts (approx ½”) (photo 19 ‘B’). They can end a little short of the cab wall (photo 19 ‘C’) as this area will be covered later. Once glued down, they can be braced with angle stock for added strength.
		Photo 19
After drying, turn the whole shell upside down on a piece of styrene sheet and trace it (photo 20). This will make the tops for the sidewall bed and cover the dead spaces. Let the rear overhang for now.
		Photo 20
Place this piece on top of the bed and mark where the sides of the shells meets on both sides (photo 21), then draw a line across to them.
		Photo 21
Then do the same for the rear (photo 22) and cut off the rear overhang. I always leave a little extra as it is easier to trim the excess off later to get a good fit. You also want to leave some for the two end cap vertical posts that will cover the ends later.
		Photo 22
Mark the ends of the inside walls of the hose bed (photos 22 & 23) (leave a little excess).
		Photo 23
Slide the top back a little and mark the front ends (photo 24).
		Photo 24
Draw a straight line on each side between the end marks (photo 25)
		Photo 25
then cut out the portion marked ‘X’ (photo 26).
		Photo 26
It should then look like photo ‘27’
		Photo 27
(Because of an accident I had with a heat gun unrelated to this project, I had to make a piece of styrene to go across the tear of the cab - see difference between photos 26 & 28). You may want to add this piece anyway as a sort of protection plate from sliding equipment. Although I did this later, now would be the time to paint the top of the hose bed silver, or diamond plate it.
		Photo 28
*Glue down the hosebed top only on the rear shell half* so you can take the shell apart later (photo 29).**
		Photo 29