Special Projects

Here some photos of things I've kitbashed and painted

Another-Baby Ladybug eggliner (Store-bought egg) Yet another store-bought egg- Baby Bee liner
Bashed locomotive-I wanted a small, amusement park-size diesel to match the 3 open cars  So I used  an Aristo motorblock and cab from  a double end cab, cut everything down to size and scratch built the rest
To re-motor a USA Trains 44-tonner with an Aristo motor block (because the 44t block is out of production), use the USA block hanger and modify as follows-make the 4 edge cutouts to clear wheel flanges, drill side holes, add styrene to attach the sideframes and drill them to match the frame screw holes. 

 

The Aristo block with the motor hanger [see the cutout areas for flanges

Thomas the Tank Engine train I made

More Thomas I made
Still more Shanty made from parts of a Lionel Thomas the Tank engine station
BUILD A CROSSING FLASHER

I could not find any real flashers reasonable price, so I decided to make my own. I started with a pair of trailer or truck tail lights for $10 at a discount automotive store. They aren't  too big but were all I could find. (I have since found that the lights from a scrapped schoolbus would probably work, plus they are an inch or so larger and come with there own shields). The shields are made out of coffee cans, the target part are cut out of the sign-type material that has the corrugations between layers, such as the political advertising signs. The main ingredient is a wig-wag flasher unit from Gall's (police/fire/emt catalog).It is 12 volt, altermates the lights at a realistic speed and runs about $30-35. It is in a water-tight box at the base. All wiring was used from trashed excess extensions cords, and the whole thing runs off a 12 volt converter I got cheap off of e-bay. The sign I bought off the internet for about $44. 

To the left is a greenhouse made of plexiglass. The top ridge is angle aluminum, and other than the door, the rest are automobile trim stripes found in auto parts stores. They have held up well. It is sitting on bricks set into the ground edgewise. 
 

READING NE CABOOSE FROM ARISTO CABOOSE

1. Remove the roof from the body using the screws above the end doors. Remove the cupola, roofwalks, and end doors as well.
2. Cut 3/8 inch off the body sides along the top. Before cutting the ends, reinforce the end doorway areas by cementing styrene pieces across the doorways under the window.
3. Fit the cupola in the center, score, and cut the long side of the roof to fit.
4. Measure, cut, and attach two pieces of .040 styreneto fill in the roof.
5. Glue the roof together. Trim and add center and end roofwalks.
6. On the main body, fill in the center windows with .030 inch styrene.
7. Fill in the end windows in a similar fashion.
8. Mask windows and paint the model.
9. When paint is dry, reassemble using screws where possible. Painting Notes: The red version has a brown roof and end platforms; the green-and-yellow version has a green roof and end platforms. For green I used Rustoleum Satin Hunter Green. For yellow I used American Accents Summer Squash. Ladder and handrails get a bright yellow on both versions.
Lettering: I used vinyl lettering (the kind you get in stationery stores) and painted the letters before transferring.

 

This shows the pieces to cut and swap
Lantern made from thumb tack
New 'Eggliner' engine.  Built on a motor block. Entire Easter Train

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